It's been a while since I've found time to process all that we've been doing, let along give an update on it. Everyday Natalie and I wake up, take an auto (see below) to school about 45 mins away. Thankfully the monsoon-like weather stopped and now we just have the dust and scorching sun. Our classes are in a building in a pretty nice part of town right near the famous Lodi Gardens and Khan Market. Our classes and lectures are interspersed with field days, where we visit different areas of the city and analyze things like market economies and safety.
A few tidbits- this is a stand in the old city of Delhi:
The old city is walled off, incredibly intense, and mostly Muslim. It's a huge contrast to New Delhi, which is planned and much less crowded. I had to give my camera to a friend on my way into a mosque (it was either that or pay 200 Rs) so I don't have any pics of the incredible alley ways. But the colors and smells and tons of people. We got stuck in a huge human traffic jam inbetween cycle rickshaws... luckily we made it to the fancy metro station safely.
Sarojini Nagar Market:
This was the market I was assigned to for our "Market Day" field day, during which we went out in small groups to analyze the economy of different markets around Delhi. The intersection of informal and formal economies was mind blowing. Sarojini Nagar is known for its huge selection of cheap knock offs, but it also has everything from vegetables to expensive jewelry. We spent awhile sitting, taking notes, talking to shop owners, and trying to figure out how the market runs each day. --
It's an amazingly complex process, and I am now aware of people and jobs I had never noticed before- such as ragpickers, who are mostly women. They go through the garbage and streets to find recyclable materials to sell to junk-sellers. Their work is illegal, but it is essential to the environmental health of the city. So many people take part in this informal work, and entire economies (such as that of handmade paper) are based on these recycled materials.
My sweet ride:
I am happy to have learned during my transportation in Delhi class/guest lecture that autos (also known as three-wheeled taxis) have the best safety record (in terms of fatal accidents) of all modes of transportation in Delhi. We speculate that it's because of the mid-range pace and ability to jump out of the side... but that doesn't totally make sense to me. Luckily I've had some pretty great autorick drivers, and I've learned enough of the Delhi body language, including some of the infamous head-bobble, to have them take me seriously.--
Transportation in Delhi is its own can of worms, with the city spending an inordinate amount on a world-class metro system that only a small portion of the population can afford. Our lectures were very frustrated with the government's transportation budget and plan. They feel that a truly democratic transportation system would be something along the lines of BRT (Bus Rapid Transit) that is cheaper, more convinient, has better personal safetly (not underground), and whose construction does not impede daily life in Delhi as much as metro construction. I could go on, but I'll leave it at that. Cities are frustrating creatures at times.
But the following picture may be the coolest thing I've seen in Delhi so far- a public condom machine!!
That's right, on the streets of a crowded market in Haus Khas (a pretty nice neighborhood that I was assigned to for a field day), attached to a public restroom, is a condom machine. Of course, I just had to try it. For five rupees (about 10 cents) and strong pull on the lever, you receive two condoms in a little box, and for bonus points you are sure to attract a huge crowd of onlooking men. So I guess few people probably use the condom machine, and our translator/student volunteer from Delhi had never seen one before. But nonetheless, I am impressed with Delhi for providing such a service. I could never imagine seeing such a thing in an American city. Our family values are just too strong.
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On a different note this weekend was Rosh Hashanah, the Jewish new year, and full of excitement (not of the good kind) due to a terror threat against the Chabad House I went to for dinner/services. We had no idea before the dinner that there were any warnings, but afterwards the Israeli sitting next to us told us that there was warnings from the Israeli bureau of counter-terrorism that they had pin-point intelligence that the same group responsible for the Mumbai attacks a couple years ago was planning another attack during this festival season. They said that people should stay away from places where Israeli's usually congregate, and Chabad Houses in particular, since one was targeted in the last attack. Needless to say, it was scary to learn of that after having sat through the entire service and dinner. We should have known given that they had planned on 200 people for dinner and only 50 or so showed. And for one of the biggest holidays of the year, too. On the upside, it was exciting to see hebrew and groups of Israelis in the back alleys of crowded Old Delhi market. Who would have thought? And we got to eat next to a couple girls from Argentina, a young guy from France, and an Israeli Londoner. It was a nice crowd. And the theme was miracle stories, so we heard some fantastic tales...
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Well, Shana Tova!! We leave our homestays for Chandigarh soon, which the capital of Punjab that was designed by Le Corbusier, the Frech architect and planner. I'm sure I'll have lots to say.
